Every village in Cyprus has a ‘kafenio’ or coffee shop. It is an integral part of the community much like a church or a tavern and is considered a social gathering place. People who enjoy budget vacations should make an effort to visit at least one kafenio to experience a taste of the “real” Cyprus that has been around for centuries. The kafenio is usually located in the central town square and is seen by some as the center of town life. Some of the larger villages have more than one kafenio, but they are always located in the center of the village.
People come to kafenios for a variety of different reasons. They come to meet their friends, enjoy a game of tavli (backgammon), gossip, eat, and of course, drink coffee. Coffee comes in 3 categories; ‘metrio’ is medium with a teaspoon of sugar, ‘glyko’ is sweet with two tablespoons of sugar, and ‘sketo’ is sugar-free. In addition to coffee, the kafenio also sells hot and cold drinks and alcohol. Locally produced herbal drinks were traditionally sold and in some of them you can still buy tea made from anise, mint or spadgia (a Cypriot herb). Other drinks available are the ubiquitous Frappe that Cypriots seem inordinately fond of. It is a foamy iced coffee made from instant iced coffee, varying amounts of sugar, and milk all mixed together. Today, kafenios have moved with the times and now sell ‘modern’ coffees like lattes and cappuccinos.
Coffee in Cyprus is still brewed in small, long-handled pots, wide at the base and tapered at the top, called ‘Mbrikia’. Traditionally, they were always made of copper. Visitors on holiday in Cyprus tend to bring them back as a popular souvenir. To make proper Cyprus coffee, a heaping teaspoon of coffee is added to each small cup of cold water. Sugar is added while the water is still cold. The amount depends on your individual preference. The mbrikias are then heated on a stove or in small trays filled with hot sand for a more even distribution of heat. When the sugar dissolves, the coffee is brought to a boil, forming a creamy foam, known to Cypriots as ‘kaimaki’ on top. As the foam begins to rise, the coffee is removed from the boil. Cyprus coffee tends to be quite strong and is served in small cups and is usually served with a glass of water. The grounds are never drunk and when the cup is empty it is inverted into a small plate or saucer.
Kafenios in Cyprus are as varied as the drinks they sell. Trendy coffee shop like ‘Da Capo’ in Nicosia is popular with tourists on late vacations and young locals who meet their friends here and sit outside and people watch. ‘Oktana’ in Nicosia’s old town is a popular kapheno and can get quite crowded. People come here for the coffee, which is excellent, and to play backgammon. They are also famous for their delicious crepes. There is a beautiful patio in the back and in the basement, you can relax in the cozy Uqbar and smoke a hookah. Another good kafenio in Cyprus is the ‘Kala Kathoumena’ coffee shop in Nicosia. A big favorite with the art set, people come here to meet their friends. It is the place to be seen and attracts many Cypriot celebrities.